You probably wear them several times a week, you must have one or two in your wardrobe. Yet you certainly have no idea of the incredible story behind this piece of fabric. I'm talking about chinos, these chic and casual pants that we come across every day. Sit back and let me tell you how a garment intended for war became a fashion icon.
Let's agree on what a chino is. In the dictionary, we can read:“Chino, noun, Straight pants in beige cotton canvas” .
Today, they come in all shapes and colors... but before getting there, he had to go on a long journey.
Let's go back a little in time to land in 1848. We are in the middle of the colonial period, and the British army is trying to hold its positions in what is now Pakistan. Except that between the United Kingdom and Pakistan there is a small temperature difference.
And at the time, the dress of British officers was the Red Coat or Red Tunic. It consists of a red woolen jacket and white woolen pants. All this keeps you warm, very warm even!
Wool ? You will recognize that there is lighter. Red and white? You will recognize that there is more discreet for an army. Especially since a very serious test has shown that red targets were more often hit than targets with sober colors:gray and green. It is by making this observation that Lieutenant-General Sir Harry Burnett Lumsden decided to completely change outfits.
Say goodbye to bright colors and welcome to much more camouflage-friendly pants. We decided to dye it khaki to blend in better with the landscape.
At the time, he took the name 'Khaki':Why? It's simply a Hindi word for “dust” or “ground color” .
And there, you are going to say to me:“What does this have to do with chinos?”
Well, khaki is chino, it's just that it doesn't have that name yet. You will quickly understand.
For that, you have to make another leap in time and on the world map. Direction:the Philippines at the end of the 19th century, in the midst of the Spanish-American War.
The Americans were inspired by the English for their uniforms. They adopted the khaki but also the warm woolen pants.
Wool in the Philippines. Suffice to say that wool in this region of the world is not necessarily the best of allies.They therefore opt for a lighter fabric, cotton. Although manufactured and imported from England, these new pants were sold by merchants... Chinese.
And this is where the great etymological mystery falls… Chinese, Chino? Do you have it? Yes, it's as simple as that.
Now you're going to say to me:"All this war stuff is all well and good, but how did these pants go from military outfit to fashion piece in a dressing room?"
After the Second World War, the world offers itself a little peace and resumes a more or less normal life. Except that… to make the war, we produced a lot of outfits, so there are a lot of stocks to sell. It would be a shame to throw everything in the trash, wouldn't it?
As the pants are rather comfortable, discreet and inexpensive, they are sold in droves to the population. And it was an immediate success.
Added to this is another very important element:a law! In 1944, the G.I Bill , allows the fighters of the Second World War to have many advantages in recognition of what they have done for the fatherland. Among these, the possibility of going to the University at very advantageous rates. So we're going to see khaki chinos flourish on university benches. High place of education… and fashion trends.
Subsequently, the chinos will be worn by great fashion icons such as Marlon Brando or Steve McQueen:an advertisement that will infuse fashion for many years.
And that's it, is it over? Well no. That would be too easy.
The chino also had its little slack. After this meteoric rise, he partly went back to the old-fashioned box. Why ? Because it characterized dad's pants... even grandpa's! But you know, corny yesterday, hype tomorrow. Fashion is an eternal new beginning, and it is once again an essential item in the male wardrobe.
The chino is the alternative to the classic but sometimes too common jeans. Lighter, more chic and more relaxed, it can be worn in all styles. Above all, it seduces a whole generation that wants to make its outfit a complete tool.
And the perfect example can be found at the end of the 80s. During this period, the brand of the famous group Levi Strauss &Co:Dockers was born and brought chinos back to the fore. The brand brings out this piece which aims to present the man in a chic but relaxed style while maintaining optimal comfort.
At the same time, the brand popularizes the custom of Friday Wear (or Casual Day as we say across the Atlantic). End the week being both productive and relaxed by swapping the traditional suit for a more casual outfit. And what could be more casual but chic than chinos?
The effect is almost immediate with nearly half of American boxes playing the Friday Wear game. In this way, the chino made it possible to break the codes of the hierarchy a little and to assert your personality even more.
Like Matthias Dandois, nine-time French BMX world champion and Dockers brand ambassador, who explains it perfectly:“The clothes I wear when I ride in training or in competition are also the ones I everyday wear... Dockers is made for riding and for everyday life. I don't change my clothes to go have a drink with friends or to go do my tricks! The shape of the Chino has become legendary and acclaimed by riders and skaters, it is well known in the industry”.
Now you know everything
